Saturday, 7 January 2012

2012 Began in Berlin

Teuflesberg, Berlin
The Vegetarian and I decided on an impromptu trip to Berlin to see how our good friends Graeme and Alex had settled into their new lives there.

Perhaps New Year’s Day was not the best day to arrive as the city was sleeping after the celebrations. The weather was close to freezing with short bursts of rain throughout the week so a lot of our time was spent layering-up and de-layering as we walked around. 


One morning the sun came out for a few hours so we quickly jumped on a train to Teuflesberg (Devil’s Mountain) located in West Berlin. Teuflesberg is an artificial hill built out of the rubble that was left in the city after the Second World War. It is estimated to contain about 12 million cubic meters of rubble, which is the equivalent of 400,000 buildings!

Teuflesberg Listening Tower

In the late 1950s a listening post was built at the top of the hill for the West to listen in on Eastern bloc military traffic. The station stopped operating after the fall of the Berlin wall but the abandoned tower has become the hub for street artists from around the world.

Teuflesberg Street Art

Teuflesberg Abandoned Tower



Inside the big dome on top even the tiniest sound echoes – you’re aware of every noise you make – from a sigh to the sound of a violin. It’s an amazing experience, and on one side you can see the city of Berlin spreading in front of you and on the other there is an endless forest.

View From The Top Of Teuflesberg

On our way back to Berlin we were hungry and ready for lunch. I had missed the German markets in London this winter so was excited to be in the country itself and on a mission to find the best German sausage in town! But alas everything seemed to be shut after the New Year celebrations; also the three vegetarians I traveled with did not share my desire for meat. 

Evil Curry Weisser


Finally I stumbled across a fast food spot in Alexanderplatz, which sold the famous Curry Weisser (curry sausage) I had been told I had to try. It was not the delicious snack I had dreamed of and actually I couldn’t finish it; I was left feeling empty and a bit sick. I gave up on my search after this, fearing I would only be disappointed further.

Having eaten Italian, Indian and way too many sandwiches with salad cream (my least favourite condiment), I was determined to have a good meal before I left Berlin. Luckily we stumbled across Sauvage – A Paleolithic restaurant with a menu based on the dietary habits of our prehistoric ancestors. Sauvage doesn’t mimic how prehistoric man ate but uses the basic ingredients of Paleo cooking - vegetables, meat, fish, eggs, oils, nuts, seeds and herbs. All the ingredients come from organic farming or wildlife. Another term could be stone-age food – cooked without sugar, processed grains or milk.
The menu was simple with two meat dishes and one fish dish, and there was a vegetarian version for each. Not only did it satisfy my needs, the vegetarians were happy too.  

To start with we had an antipasti board with gluten-free garlic bread and goats cheese, garlic carrots and mushrooms, sauerkraut, rocket pesto, ginger paste, tomato and cucumber salad and gluten free crackers.
Sauvage Mushroom Pate
Sauvage Steak

For my main I had a steak cooked to perfection, red wine jus, celeriac mash, caramalised onions, capers, garlic carrots and salad.
The Vegetarian had the same but with a herb infused mushroom and roast nut pate and a chopped mushroom topping. The portions were plenty, leaving no room for a dessert.

All accompanied by a delicious glass of Pinot Noir and the evocative sounds of Edith Piaf.

I had a fantastic break in Berlin but sadly it ended with a horrendous cold. Luckily I discovered a German trick to help me get rid of it. Instead of the usual honey and lemon drink this version uses ginger aswell, creating a refreshing, fiery taste that wakes-up all those sleeping tastebuds.

Ginger, Lemon, Honey Drink

2inch ginger, thinly sliced
Juice of 1 lemon
1tbsp manuka honey
2 cups water

Place the ginger in a pan, cover with the water and bring to the boil. Simmer for 5 minutes. Squeeze in the lemon and stir in the honey.

Pour through a strainer into mugs.

Optional: Make the drink even more refreshing by adding a few sprigs of fresh mint to each mug.


  1. that ginger honey lemon combo is a favourite of mine too.. i think manuka honey actually has magical powers.

    I had my first currywurst last year in Berlin, it was the wurst. And I'm totally with you on the salad cream thing. I LOVE condiments, but it's just not for me.

    Lovely pics!


  2. This is a wonderful post, Georgia. I wish I could've been there. xx

  3. Glad you enjoyed reading about my trip to Berlin. I'm almost rid of my cold and ready for another holiday now!