Suzu Sushi Class

Suzu Special Sushi

Is Sushi really as hard to make as it looks? Well yesterday I found out for myself at a Suzu sushi-making class in Hammersmith. It turns out to be a sticky business but if you have the right equipment - well oiled gloves, rolling mat, a very sharp knife and a professional to help you- it's not so tricky after all. 

Makiki Demonstrating to Class

Our teacher Makiko Mathews explained the long process of cooking the Japanese rice which involves washing the rice thoroughly, leaving it to drain in a sieve for 30 minutes, boiling the rice for 13 minutes, then leaving it to steam for 15 minutes, adding Japanese vinegar which is both sweet and sour and finally, leaving it to cool with the lid off for at least 15 minutes. Once cooked, the rice can be kept at room temperature for 10 hours. Luckily the rice had already been prepared, leaving us with the fun part of making three different varieties of sushi.

Sushi Preparations

Makiki began by demonstrating how to make Maki Sushi - cucumber rolls - helping us with the first batch and leaving us to remember for the second batch. 

Each student covered their bamboo-rolling mat with cling film, put on the gloves provided and dipped fingertips in sesame oil (it is very difficult to roll sushi without well-oiled fingers).

Maki Sushi

We then placed a sheet of seaweed on top (rough side up) and weighed out the correct amount of rice (the size of a medium egg). We evenly distributed the rice on top of the seaweed, leaving just the width of a baby finger clear at the top. 

Maki Sushi Cylinder

After placing the cucumber lengthways in the middle, we used the bamboo mat to roll the sushi into a cylinder shape.

Cucumber Maki Sushi

Using the tip of a very sharp knife we cut the cylinder in half before cutting each half into three. 

Sushi Nigiri

Our next task was making Sushi Nigiri with fresh salmon. This was a complicated business, as salmon is very delicate. We weighed out just a cherry sized ball of rice, squished it into an oblong shape and, using the crease at the base of our fingers, gently molded the slice of salmon around the rice.  

Makiki Slicing Fresh Salmon

 Makiki explained that only the freshest fish can be used for sushi; any supermarket products should be avoided, as you can never be too sure how long they have been travelling or sitting on the shelf. We were recommended Atari-Ya Foods fishmonger in London for the freshest and best quality fish. They are very accommodating and will even just cut you a slice of fish if you explain what you're making.  

My Sushi Partner Soffia- Tasting Her Creations

Finally we were taught the trickiest sushi of all (so we were told): The Western-style roll or, in this case, the Suzu special roll. As sushi became more popular over the last 50 years, these Western-style rolls, were created in North America and Europe, and are actually rarely seen in Japan. The rice is rolled outside the filling, making these the most complicated to accomplish successfully. Oblivious to me (I was too busy covering my creations in wasabi and dipping them into soya sauce before happily devouring them), Makiki had set up a competition, with the winner of the best Suzu special rolls receiving a prize at the end. 

Suzu Special Cylinder

We got to work, weighing a small avocado sized ball of rice and spreading it to cover a sheet of seaweed. We gently turned the seaweed, rice-side down and placed a baton of fresh salmon and avocado lengthways in the middle. This time we used the mat to roll the seaweed half way (to the salmon) before using our left hand to secure its position and the right hand to roll the mat, shaping the seaweed and rice into a cylinder. There was a little seaweed sticking out of the rice. I looked around and saw that most people had the same amount of seaweed or more showing. I didn’t think it looked right so I kept rolling my cylinder until the seaweed was covered and there was only rice on the outside. 

My Prize Winning Suzu Special Sushi

It turns out I did the right thing for, after Makiki had inspected them all, she walked over to give me the prize – a bottle of the best sushi vinegar - and she showed the class my creation.

Feeling like the best sushi maker EVER, I left with a box of sushi to show the Vegetarian. I also had a sheet of instructions on how to make sushi rice, a sushi rolling mat, my prize of sushi vinegar and plans for a sushi evening to share my new skills with friends.

Visit Makiko Matthew’s Japanese Tapas restaurant Suzu in London (http://www.suzuonline.co.uk), join her sushi-making classes (http://www.meetup.com/Japanese-cooking-class/) or have her serve sushi at your next event or dinner party: makiko@suzuonline.co.uk.

Rainbow Trout with Caper Sauce

The Vegetarian was out this evening so I invited round a friend and had a feast of Rainbow Trout with a caper sauce. 

Serves: 2 pescatarians

2 Rainbow Trouts, gutted
2tbsp capers
Knob of butter
1 lemon
Olive oil
Sea salt and black pepper

Heat the oven to 180 degrees.

Cut the lemon in half and cut a slice from each half.
Season the Rainbow Trout and pan-fry for 2 minutes on each side.
Place the Rainbow Trout in an oven-proof pan with the half lemons. Squeeze the lemon slices over the Rainbow Trout and place inside on the bones of the fish. Add a little more seasoning and cook in the oven for 15 minutes.

Remove the fish from the pan and in the same pan place a knob of butter, drizzle of olive oil, squeeze of lemon and the capers. Swizzle the pan until the butter melts and pour the sauce over the top of the Rainbow Trout.

Serve with the warmed wedge of lemon, new potatoes and green beans.

French crepes

Crepe With All The Trimmings

We have been celebrating Shrove Tuesday for 500 years yet considering that pancakes are such an important part of our food mythology isn’t it strange that we don’t eat out in pancake houses? The French have creperies in every part of town, but we don’t have any pancakeries.

In France it is quite common to have a whole meal based around crepes; with savoury crepes (made with buckwheat flour) and a huge selection of fillings for the main meal and sweet crepes (made with white flour);drizzled with lemon and sugar, chocolate spread or jam for dessert.

Last weekend my French cousin Caroline and her boyfriend Alize came to stay with me in London.  I made them a Sunday Roast with all the trimmings (neither had tried before and were unaware of our tradition!), and in exchange myself and my flat-mates were treated to a feast of savory and sweet crepes, French wines and a fantastic selection of cheese from Grenoble - the foot of the French Alps. 

Mmm French Cheese

Savoury crepes

70g buckwheat flour
10g White flour
1 egg
1/2 liter Milk
Water
Sunflower oil

Put the flour in a large bowl, make a hole in the middle, break in the egg and gently mix together.
Stir in the milk and a little water a bit at a time until you get a good texture. If it’s too heavy the crepes will be too thick and if it’s too watery you won’t be able to make them into crepes. Add a dash of sunflower oil at the end.

Pour a little sunflower oil into a bowl and dab a piece of kitchen paper in it.
Place a crepe pan or frying pan on a medium heat until it is very hot. Rub the pan with the oil soaked kitchen paper and pour over a small ladle of batter.
Quickly, swirl the pan, so that the batter evenly distributes in a thin layer.

Cook over a low heat until the crepe starts to brown (about two minutes). Turn over the crepe (tossing the pan is the best way as it’s quite a fun element to the cooking process but this can be pretty tricky to get right first time so be prepared to waste a few!) and start adding your fillings. Fold the crepe in half at the end before serving with a garnish of salad.

There are many options of what you can serve your crepe with. We had the following options:

Mushrooms in a garlic cream sauce

Buttery leeks

Caramalised red onions

Blue cheese

Cheddar cheese

Ham

Crème fraiche

Eggs

I was intrigued by the egg option and asked my French cousin Caroline to demonstrate, as I hadn’t tried this before. She broke the egg into the middle of the crepe and placed cheese around the outside to stop the egg from running off. She then added all the other options I wanted in my crepe (I had a bit of everything on the first one!). After a few minutes she placed a lid over the top to cook the egg through and finally folded the crepe in two before serving with a side of salad. 

Sweet Crepes

100g White Flour

1 egg

1/2 liter Milk
Water

Sunflower oil

Put the flour in a large bowl, make a hole in the middle, break in the eggs and gently mix together.
Stir in the milk and a little water a bit at a time until you get a good texture. If it’s too heavy the crepes will be too thick and if it’s too watery you won’t be able to make them into crepes.

Pour a little sunflower oil into a bowl and dab a piece of kitchen paper in it.
Place a crepe pan or frying pan on a medium heat until it is very hot. Rub the pan with the oil soaked kitchen paper and pour over a small ladle of batter.
Quickly, swirl the pan, so that the batter evenly distributes in a thin layer.

Cook over a low heat until the crepe starts to brown (about two minutes). Turn over the crepe (tossing the pan is the best way as it’s quite a fun element to the cooking process but this can be pretty tricky to get right first time so be prepared to waste a few!) and start adding your fillings. Fold the crepe in half at the end before serving.

We had the following filling options:

Nutella

Sugar

Lemon

Selection of jams

Caroline what impressed with my favourite filling: Nutella, lemon and a sprinkle of sugar (to add a crunch). She had never tried lemon with Nutella before but loved it and has decided to take this delicacy (?) back with her to France.

Bon Appetit!

 

Pasta with a Spanish twist: Manchego cheese or Serrano ham

Pasta with a Spanish Twist

After a long day at work this is a very simple dish to make and a great way of adding a Spanish twist to your evening meal. I absolutely love both Manchego cheese and Serrano ham so will often add both to my bowl.

Serves: 1 vegetarian, 1 meat-eater

Orecchiette (little ears) pasta (Approx 100g per person)

2 handfuls spinach, chopped

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 red chili, de-seeded and chopped

Handful pine nuts

¼ juice of lemon

Sea salt and black pepper

Olive oil

V: Shavings of Manchego cheese

M: Slice or two of Serrano ham, torn into strips

Boil the pasta in lots of salted water until al dente (approx 1o minutes). Drain.

Meanwhile, dry pan fry the pine nuts for a few minutes, until golden brown and set aside.

In a separate frying pan, fry the garlic and chili in a glug of olive oil for one minute. Stir in the spinach until it starts to wilt, then season.

Add the drained pasta to the pan, squeeze over the lemon, fold in the pine nuts and mix the ingredients together. Include extra olive oil, sat and black pepper if necessary.

V: Serve with a sprinkle of Manchego cheese

M: Serve with torn Serrano ham

Sloe Gin Recipe

Sloe Berries

I couldn't wipe the horrified look off my face as I arrived at Didcot Parkway rail station and walked towards my friend Hannah- 7months pregnant and waving a bottle of gin in her hand!

'We're off to pick sloe berries’ she shouted.
I let out a deep breath, phew.

So, off we went on a wonderful walk alongside the river Thames in search of sloe berries to make sloe gin. My Sally sausage dog was tiny in comparison to Conner collie dog and they fought and played along the way.

After about 20 minutes we came across bushes and bushes of sloe berries. 

Picking The Sloe Berries

Hannah came prepared for this part and while Kev (Hannah’s husband) and I picked a kilo worth of berries, Hannah excused herself with pregnancy waffle and sat this part out. 

Hannah and Conner Taking a Break

We slowly strolled back in the gleaming afternoon sun and began the first stage of making sloe gin. 

Pricking The Sloe Berries

Sloe Berries and Sugar Awaiting the Gin

It should be ready in a few months -just in time for the birth of Hannah’s first child. I'll be back on the train to drink the first glass and celebrate.

The Sloe Gin Mix

Recipe makes: 1 bottle of Sloe Gin

500g sloe berries

250g of sugar

750ml gin

Wash the sloe berries and prick each with a pin or the point of a knife and place in a large sterilized jar.

Pour over the sugar and the gin. Seal the lid and give it a good shake.

Store in a dark cupboard and give the jar a shake everyday for a few months (if you can remember to!), allowing the sloe berries to steep into the gin.

After about 2-3 months, strain the gin through a muslin cloth and pour into a sterilised bottle. Kev recommended keeping the original gin bottle and pouring the sloe gin back into it once strained.

Sea Bass or Aubergine with Olives and Roast Tomatoes

Baked Wild Sea Bass with Potatoes and Tomatoes

The Autumn weather is pretty confusing this year, with sunny days but chilly nights, so here is a light Mediterranean dish that will keep you warm but make you feel that summer isn’t quite over yet. The aubergine takes a little longer to cook so get the vegetarian version of this dish in the oven first.

Serves: 2 vegetarian, 2 pescatarians

6 tomatoes, halved

3 garlic cloves, crushed and sliced

1 slice wholemeal bread, toasted and made into breadcrumbs

Handful basil leaves

Handful parsley, torn

Handful black olives, pitted

1 glass white wine

2 large potatoes, peeled and sliced

Juice of 1 lemon

1-2tsp sugar

Olive oil

Sea salt and black pepper

V: 2 small aubergines
P: 1 medium sized wild sea bass, de-scaled and gutted (I usually ask the fishmonger to do this for me.)

Heat the oven to 200 degrees/gas mark 6.

Roast the tomatoes in a little olive oil and seasoning for about 30 minutes.

Meanwhile par-boil the potato slices for 8-10 minutes. Drain and set aside.

Blend the breadcrumbs together with the garlic, a dash of olive oil and seasoning.

Brush two baking trays with olive oil and divide the potato slices between them, layering each with the basil leaves.

V: Slice a few cuts into both sides of the aubergines. Lay the aubergines on the potato and basil. Place half the tomatoes and half the olives around the outside. Pour over half the wine, drizzle with olive oil and scatter half of the garlic breadcrumbs. Place in the oven for 30 minutes. Squeeze over half the lemon juice and bake for a further 10 minutes.

P: Slice a few cuts on one side of the fish. Lay the wild sea bass, cut side up, on the second dish of potato and basil. Place the remaining tomato halves and olives around the outside. Pour over the remaining wine, drizzle with olive oil and scatter the rest of the garlic breadcrumbs. Place in the oven for 20 minutes. Squeeze over half the lemon juice and bake for a further 10 minutes.

Sprinkle each with torn parsley and serve with a simple salad and crusty bread.

Yotam Ottolenghi cooking course at Leith’s cookery school

Six months ago, with an alarm set, following a sleepless night, I sat with my phone to my ear, waiting on hold, hoping my call would be answered.  I was hopeful, at least I was in the queue this time; last time, many months earlier, I couldn’t get past the engaged tone. With such a small window of opportunity for this very popular course, I was over-the-moon when my call was answered and I was allotted a place on the Ottolenghi cooking course at Leith’s cookery school in West London.

Me and Yotam Ottolenghi!

Yotam Ottolenghi is one of my favourite chefs and a revolutionary in vegetarian cooking (although he does not just cook for vegetarians). I could go as far as to say that he was the inspiration for my re-found love of food. Ottolenghi helped me be more creative in the kitchen, using ingredients I hadn’t considered before and, finally, The Vegetarian was getting exciting meals full of unusual food combinations.

At last the day of the course arrived. Saturday morning was full of excitement as we 35 students sat in the canteen, eagerly awaiting the man himself. We all had questions for him, as he talked through the day’s menu. Time was passing quickly so Ottolenghi recommended we move into the classroom, start cooking and continue our questioning there.

Once in the large classroom, on tables of four and in teams of two, we started cooking our multiple dishes. We began by preparing the dessert – poached quince with star anise, blackberries and vanilla ice cream. 

Poached Quince

My cooking partner Peter and I then moved on to making the Baked Okra with Tomato and Preserved Lemon. Tomatoes are no longer in season so Ottolenghi recommended we add a touch of tomato puree and sugar to thicken and sweeten the sauce. He also advised us to avoid using the larger okra as these have more stimuli (chewy strands). 

Baked Okra with Tomato and Preserved Lemon

Next we filled a baking tray with chunks of aubergine for the Aubergine and Herbs dish; then we started frying the fennel for the Quinoa and Fennel Salad. 

Quinoa and Fennel Salad

Finally, we used a rolling pin to bash out the pomegranate seeds from their skin and gently fried the haloumi for the Warm Haloumi and Chicory with Pomegranate and Walnut dish.

Our Delicious Feast

At the end, we plated up the food and had a glass of wine to celebrate the delicious feast we had in front of us. At that moment, Ottolenghi walked past and he was so impressed with our styling he took a photo and tweeted it with the note: Georgia and Peter should be proud. 

We Were Proud!

I learnt a few tricks along the way from the many Leith’s staff dotted around the classroom. I was taught a clever technique for dissecting lime segments that added a kick to the Quinoa and Fennel Salad: Use a sharp knife to trim the top and tail, cut down the side to remove the skin and white pith and, over a bowl, remove the segments from the lime by slicing between the membranes.

I was also taught the French method chiffonade – the way to stop soft herbs such as basil and mint from bruising: Gently roll the herb and delicately slice it as opposed to chopping it.

The Leith's Classroom

Yotam Ottolenghi did his best to walk around the class and talk to each table but some tables grasped his attention more than others. This was disappointing, as I know how to cook his dishes and, more than anything, wanted to hear about his experiences and inspirations, and have a good ol’ pick of his brain.

The course would have benefitted from being a bit more intimate, with half the number of students, and Ottolenghi at the front talking us through each dish, allowing everyone to ask questions and all to hear his responses. Perhaps this would help Ottolenghi, too, as I imagine that, as he walked around, many conversations were repetitive.

Nonetheless, my love for Yotam Ottolenghi will continue to grow. His cool, laid-back personality and outstanding approach to cooking is likely to keep me inspired for many more years to come. Having used his vegetarian book 'Plenty' to pieces, I am excited with my new signed purchase of his first book – Ottolenghi, The Cookbook. 

Signed, Ottolenghi - The Cookbook

Norfolk Autumn chutney

The Apple Orchard

This weekend became a rescue operation in more than one way. Not only were we gathering the last of the fallen apples but just as I was leaving the countryside, we realised one of the cats were missing. With one cat already in the car and a sally dog by my feet we began our pursuit of the missing cat. After spying her in the distance I did what I thought was clever planning and organised a  nifty leap over a wire fence to get into the field beyond - this wasn't so clever afterall as instead of the green grass I  looked down to find myself stuck to the fence, with a rip in my trouser and surrounded my stinging nettles. Whilst I tried to untangle myself, the cat elegantly walked past, through a gap in the fence, back into the garden. I'm pretty certain I saw her smirk as she passed by too.

Finally in the car, loaded with two cats, a dog, hundreds of apples and pears and a lots of jars of home-made chutney. 

Here is a recipe for you to try.

Norfolk Autumn chutney

Norfolk Autumn Chutney

This  spicy chutney is the ideal way of using up a glut of autumn fruit and veg. You can vary the quantities, adding more or less of each ingredient, depending on what is available.  Cut away any bruises on the windfalls, and keep the ratio of fruit/vinegar/ sugar the same.

2 kg windfall apples

500 g pears

250 g plums or greengages, stoned and halved

250 g tomatoes, quartered

1 kg onions, peeled and chopped

1 lb marrow, peeled and cut in small cubes

250 g seedless raisins and/or sultanas

250 g soft brown sugar

900 ml malt vinegar

2 tsp salt

Pickling spices, tied in muslin: 6 cloves, 10 peppercorns, ½ cinnamon stick, piece of mace, 5 allspice, ½ cm root ginger, peeled and chopped.

1 tsp cayenne

Cut away any bruises; peel and chop the fruit.

Place the chopped onions in a large, heavy-based saucepan, cover with water and simmer for about 15 minutes, to soften. Drain and return to the pan.

Add the chopped fruit and marrow, and the raisins and/or sultanas.

Add half the vinegar and the spices.

Bring to the boil,  turn down the heat and simmer until the fruit is tender, about 1 hour, stirring from time to time to prevent sticking.

Add the sugar, salt and the rest of the vinegar. Stir to dissolve the sugar.

Cook gently until thick for another hour or so, stirring from time to time.

Remove the spices in muslin,and discard.

Warm about 10 clean jars and, while the chutney is still hot, spoon it into the jars. Cover quickly with wax circles and cellophane rings, and seal with the lid. (You can buy these in many household stores). Label the jars with the date.

You may want to eat the chutney at once but, to get the best flavour, leave it to mature for a month or two.

A Day in the Kitchen of The Colonel Fawcett

Prepping For The Day Ahead

Sizzling Pork Burgers with Caramalized Apples

Crispy Beer Battered Pollock and Chips

The Orders Just Kept on Coming!

My Handy Work - Placing the Figs on the Fig Tart.

Ouch! I just cut my finger and a blister is forming on my other hand. I’ve been cutting onions, chopping herbs and scrubbing potatoes for hours. Is this what everyday in a professional kitchen is like? I’m breathing in the aroma of caramelized apples, sizzling pork and sage burgers, and roasting garlic…while the machine next to me vibrates as it mixes the next batch of Foccacia dough. Behind me someone hurries past, balancing plates of beer-battered Pollock with pea and mint puree and tartar sauce on one hand, and a steak and kidney pie with puff pastry, parsnip mash and kale on the other, together with a bowl of amazing chunky chips, coated with Malden sea salt and crispy rosemary. Chef Kirk shouts to Chef Davis that the next booking has just arrived – a table of 20 people!

It’s Friday lunchtime on a brilliant sunny Autumn day, and it feels like the whole of Camden is heading here – to the newly opened Colonel Fawcett gastro pub. And I’m in the kitchen having my very first experience of helping behind the scenes. It’s hard trying to keep pace with the experts.

The two chefs, Dorian Kirk and Rupert Davis, have been working together since they left Hereford Tech College eight years ago. Bill Granger’s Australian restaurant, Bill’s No.1, is on their CV and they have been credited with the recent success of London’s Café Below – (vegetarians look away now!) - they introduced a meat menu to the formally vegetarian establishment.

At the Colonel Fawcett, the menu changes daily, the produce is sourced impeccably and everything is made on the premises – bread, jam, chutney, ice-cream etc.

There is so much going on. It’s exhilarating and exhausting, and I can’t resist wanting to try every dish on the menu so far. A fantastic a la carte menu is coming soon. Could they be heading for a Michelin star?

If you want to get there first, hurry along now.

The Colonel Fawcett

1 Randolph Street, Camden, London, NW1 0SS.

Tapas: Albondigas – Spanish Meatballs or Veggieballs

Albondigas (Spanish Meatballs)

Albondigas (Spanish Meatballs)in Tomato Sauce is a very popular dish, usually served as tapas in bars up and down Spain or cooked as a main meal at home. Albondigas are usually accompanied by fresh bread to soak up the tomato sauce.

Serves: 4 Vegetarians, 4 Meat-eaters, as part of tapas

2 slices stale bread, made into breadcrumbs

2 eggs

Handful parsley, chopped

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

Sea Salt and Black Pepper

1 large Spanish onion, finely chopped

1 small glass of dry white wine

1 tbsp plain flour

Olive oil

1 can chopped tomatoes

V: 150g mixed nuts, finely chopped or crushed using a pestle and mortar

50g baby spinach leaves

150ml vegetable stock

M: 200g lean minced beef

150ml beef or chicken stock

V: Mix the nuts, spinach, half the breadcrumbs, half the parsley, half the garlic, ¼ of the onion and season with salt and black pepper. Form into small balls and dust with flour. Heat a glug of olive oil in a casserole pan and sauté the veggieballs until browned all over.

M: Mix the meat, half the breadcrumbs, half the parsley, half the garlic, ¼ of the onion and season with salt and black pepper. Form into small balls and dust with flour. Heat a glug of olive oil in a casserole pan and sauté the meatballs until browned all over.

Divide the remaining onion between the two pans. When the onion is translucent, add half of the tomatoes and wine to each.

V: Add the vegetable stock to the pan with the veggieballs.

M: Add the chicken/beef to the pan with the meatballs

Season to taste and cook covered over a low heat for 40 minutes. Give the pan a shake or stir every now and then, to stop anything sticking.